Surfer’s Guide to Catching Waves
Introduction
Paddling with proper technique and using a surfboard that matches your ability and the surfing conditions will make catching waves much easier. While there are many other factors at play, the first step is to learn how to balance on a surfboard—a skill that will develop naturally over time. We’ve written a guide to paddling, which is something you can and should practice as you paddle out to the lineup and adjust your position. Paddling with good technique when not catching waves, ensures it becomes second nature when it’s time to catch a wave.
Beginner Waves
It’s much easier to learn to surf and catch waves in the whitewater. Whitewater waves are easier to catch because their energy is different. Unbroken waves (green waves) are moving energy, and you need to match their speed to catch them. When a wave breaks, the energy is released, and the forward-moving force of the whitewater helps you catch the wave.
Avoid catching waves in the impact zone (where the wave is breaking), as the force can be overwhelming and unbalance you. The best spot is a few meters past where the wave has already broken. Face directly toward the shore (perpendicular to the wave) and start paddling a few seconds before the wave reaches you. Paddle at about half the speed of the wave for a smooth catch. When the wave’s energy starts carrying you, stop paddling, stabilize, then pop up and ride!
Intermediate and Advanced Waves
Catching unbroken waves is more challenging as you need to paddle fast enough to match their speed. Unlike whitewater waves, you need to rely on the force of gravity to help you.
Waves move faster in deeper water, so bigger waves that break further out require more speed to catch. This is why bigger boards are often used on bigger days—they allow you to move faster and catch the wave more easily.
The wave must be steep enough to provide sufficient gravitational force. Steeper waves are easier to catch but harder to manage during the takeoff. Wave selection and positioning are critical skills. If you’ve been surfing from a young age, your brain may have developed the ability to recognize wave shapes and predict their movement. For others, observation and advice from a surf school are invaluable.
Every wave is unique, and every surf spot has characteristics that change with tide, wave size, and swell direction. For detailed insights into Bali’s surf breaks, check out our complete surf spot guide.
Angling Your Takeoff
The easiest way to catch a wave is by paddling perpendicular to it, directly toward the shore. However, this isn’t always possible, especially with steep or fast-moving waves. For late takeoffs and quick sections, angling your takeoff is often necessary. An angled take off ensures the wave is not so steep and you are already moving in the direction you want to go (left or right) so a bottom turn may not be necessary or desirable.
When to Start Paddling for the Wave
Select the right wave and position yourself appropriately. If you’re in the perfect spot, start paddling slowly toward the shore. Watch the wave over your shoulders to gauge its movement and shape, adjusting your speed and direction as needed.
How to Catch the Wave
When you feel the wave lifting the tail of your board, it’s time to paddle faster. Take a quick glance over your shoulder to ensure no other surfers are in your path. Once clear, focus solely on the direction you want to go.
Timing your acceleration is key. Pro surfers make it look effortless because they know exactly when to speed up and maximize the wave’s energy. Intermediate surfers often miss waves because they don’t paddle fast enough or keep their weight too far back.
When the moment feels right, paddle with full commitment and effort. Use deeper, faster strokes and lower your head slightly at the optimal moment to leverage gravitational force without nosediving your board.
The further forward you can lye on your board, the easier the wave is to catch. Check our our video which is a guide to positioning on the board and demonstrates hydonamic lift which pro surfers use so effectively.
How Fast You Need to Be Moving
To catch a wave, you must match its speed. However, if you are travelling at same speed on a powerful wave, it will catch (and maybe throw) you. Moving slightly faster than the wave ensures you can descend the wave face before the whitewater overtakes you.
When to pop up
If you are unsure to pop up or not, keep paddling. Getting the timing right of when to pop up is a feeling and it comes with experience. If you paddle for too long you will be too low down the wave. If you try to pop up too soon you risk either missing the wave, or the wave catching you and the whitewater taking control of your board and you. A good general rule of thumb is, when you feel you have caught the wave do 1 or 2 extra paddle strokes to ensure you are moving a little bit faster than the wave.
Avoid Common Mistakes
- Paddling too early when the wave isn’t steep enough.
- Paddling too late when the wave is too steep.
- Paddling for closeouts.
- Paddling when someone else is already riding.
- Stopping paddling too soon.
- Taking off at too sharp an angle.
These mistakes are often due to insufficient observation and experience. With time and practice, your ability to read waves and adapt will improve.
If you’re a beginner or intermediate surfer, and you’re looking to take your skills to the next level, we invite you to join our surf school at Uluwatu’s top surf camp where we will teach you how to stand on the board correctly, and how to steer and turn the surfboard.
If you are an advanced surfer then we offer barrel riding coaching and other skills such as pumping the board for to make fast sections of the wave.